General
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FAQ Billiard
Stofzuigen is het beste om je biljartlaken schoon te maken. Dit kan je doen met een optionele stofzuigermond. Waar je niet bij kan met een stofzuiger, daar kan je een borstel gebruiken. Ook met een Simonis X1 borstel kan je het laatste beetje biljartkrijt dat achterblijft op je laken weghalen.
Gebruik nooit water (water met azijn). Als er vocht op het biljartlaken komt, rekt de stof uit en krimpt deze nadien niet meer. Waardoor het laken los op de biljarttafel komt te liggen. Biljarten gaat dan trager doordat er meer weerstand is door het losse en opkrullende laken.
Er is zeer weinig wrijving en contact tussen de pomerans en de bal. Daarom moet de pomerans goed met het krijt ingewreven worden. Om je pomerans goed in te wrijven, mag je zeker niet met het krijt draaien. Je begint in het midden van de pomerans en dan wrijf je naar de buitenkant, zodat het poeder gelijkmatig verdeeld wordt en de randen goed ‘ingevet’ zijn.
Als je pomerans dan toch vernieuwd moet worden, kan je dit door ons laten uitvoeren in onze winkel.
If you prefer to do it yourself, here are some tips (for glued cue tips):
1. Belangrijk is dat de bovenkant van het beentje vlak is en blijft. Dit kan je doen met een Stanleymes of met een schuurapparaat Topper. Die is verkrijgbaar in onze winkel. Schuur nooit uit de hand want dan wordt de dop rond en heeft de pomerans geen goed lijmvlak.
2. Ruw de onderkant van de nieuwe pomerans op met een plat stuk schuurpapier (betere lijmverbinding).
3. Doe de lijm (contact- of secondelijm) op de nieuwe pomerans (platte kant) en duw het op het beentje.
4. Klem de pomerans na eenzijdige verlijming onder een lijmklem.
5. Nadat het gedroogd is, kan je de pomerans bijwerken met een speciale pomeransslijper of voorzichtig met een schuurlatje.
6. Bovenkant van de pomerans in model schuren (enigszins bol) en opruwen.
7. Klaar voor gebruik!
Essential supplies: a soft cloth, sandpaper, or a sanding sponge.
There may be several reasons why your shaft doesn’t slide smoothly:
- If your shaft has retained its original varnish, you can remove it with fine sandpaper.
- Als het topeinde blijft hangen tijdens het spel, kan dat komen door de transpiratie of vuiltjes die erop gekomen zijn. Wrijf je topeinde met een zachte handdoek proper. Als het topeinde echt té vuil is, kan je het proper maken met een in lauw water gedrenkt doekje. Het gebruik van een droge schuurspons is ook een goede manier om het topeinde in zijn originele staat terug te brengen.
You can maintain the shaft by rubbing it with a soft cloth soaked in a product designed for maintaining varnished furniture.
Additionally, we offer maintenance products that remove the blue chalk haze from your shaft ("No Blue") and make it look like new again.
To maintain the original color of your cloth, we recommend not exposing it to sunlight or moonlight for extended periods. You can also protect it with a cover.
Om de krijtdeeltjes en stofjes van het laken te vegen, is het voldoende de haarborstel met twee hoogtes te gebruiken. Die is ontworpen om ook onder de randen te kunnen gaan. U kunt ook uw stofzuiger gebruiken met de borstelzuigmond. Als uw stofzuiger uitgerust is met een drukregelaar, moet je die op het minimum zetten.
TWEE GOUDEN REGELS om in het oog te houden:
- DO NOT SMOKE over the playing area.
- DO NOT PLACE DRINKS on the rails.
The only way to properly attach this to the cue is as follows:
1. De rubberen greep over de bovenkant van de keu (keu in elkaar) schuiven. Zo ver mogelijk.
2. Dan waar de keu het dikste is het rubber omhoog rollen. Totdat er een grote rol rubber ontstaat.
3. De rubberen rol een slag draaien (omkeren). De rubberen rol van bovenaf (topeinde) zover naar beneden rollen tot waar je de handgreep vanaf wilt hebben.
4. Dan terug rollen en klaar.
Je pomerans dient ruw te zijn. Pomeransen zijn van leder gemaakt. Als de pomerans ruw is kan het krijt vast worden gehouden. De keu zal na een tijd gaan ketsen (de keu glijdt van de bal af). Met een speciaal schuurlatje kan je de pomerans weer opruwen. Ook hebben wij diverse andere schuurmiddelen voor jouw pomerans. Als je pomerans overhelt, hebben wij daarvoor ook een speciale pomeransslijper of pomeranspolierder.
The purpose of a table cover is to keep the billiard cloth free of dust.
Een afdekzeil heeft nog meer functies. Een niet licht doorlatend afdekzeil heeft als voordeel dat het biljartlaken langer zijn kleur behoudt. Tevens voorkomt een afdekzeil, mocht er een glas of iets dergelijks op omvallen, dat het biljartlaken vies wordt.
Sometimes, people leave the corners of the table cover folded up (on a carom billiard table). They do this to release heat from under the cloth, claiming it’s better for the rubber cushions. You should NEVER do this! When the corners are left open, those areas remain cool. Further toward the center, the table—and especially the rubber cushions—becomes warmer.
Tevens krijgt u dan kwaliteitsverschil in het rubber. In de hoeken blijft het rubber koel en gaat het dus langer mee. In het midden is het rubber warmer en gaat daar dus korter mee. Je krijgt dan tijdens het spel na enige tijd een effectverschil.
So: When the heating is on, preferably leave the tarpaulin off. We also advise to turn off the heating when there is no more playing, and to use the tarpaulin.
A billiard table heating system is not meant to warm the table but to keep it dry. Billiard cloths are made of wool (90%).
Wool has the property of becoming thicker when damp. When the cloth is dry, the fibers lie flat, but when damp, the fibers stand upright. This increases resistance and slows the ball down. Beneath the billiard cloth is a slate bed (natural stone). Slate is a porous material and absorbs moisture (it fogs up like a window). When the billiard table heating is set to 3 to 4 degrees above the room temperature, the table cannot retain moisture. This ensures the fibers of the billiard cloth lie flat, providing minimal resistance and allowing the ball to roll farther across the table.
Below you will find a table with the recommended dimensions for an ideal playing area. These measurements are based on optimal comfort and usability. If your room is smaller than the dimensions listed, don’t worry. Even in a more limited space, we can offer you a suitable solution. In such cases, a shorter cue can be a practical alternative that still allows for
Mocht je ruimte echter kleiner zijn dan de vermelde afmetingen, dan hoeft u zich geen zorgen te maken. Ook in een kleinere ruimte kunnen wij je een geschikte oplossing bieden. In dat geval kan een keu met een kortere lengte uitkomst bieden.
| TYPE | PLAYFIELDCM | OTHER NAME | IDEAL ROOM SIZE | CUE CM | BALL | SLATE |
| CAROM | 200x100 | antique size | 490x390 | 140 | 61,5 | 1-piece |
| CAROM | 210x105 | small table flanders | 500x395 | 140 | 61,5 | 1- OF 3-PIECE |
| CAROM | 230x115 | small table in NL and Wallonia | 520x405 | 140 | 61,5 | 3-PIECE |
| CAROM | 255x127 | half-match (mainly FR) | 545x417 | 140 | 61,5 | 3-PIECE |
| CAROM | 284x142 | match table / competition size | 574x432 | 140 | 61,5 | 3-PIECE |
| AMERICAN POOL | 180x90 | 6ft | 480x390 | 145 | 57,2 | 1-piece |
| AMERICAN POOL | 200x100 | 7ft | 500x400 | 145 | 57,2 | 1- OF 3-PIECE |
| AMERICAN POOL | 224x112 | 8ft | 524x412 | 145 | 57,2 | 3-PIECE |
| AMERICAN POOL | 254x127 | 9ft | 554x427 | 145 | 57,2 | 3-PIECE |
| SNOOKER | 183x91 | 6ft | 483x391 | 145 | 48 | 1-piece |
| SNOOKER | 211x105 | 7ft | 511x405 | 145 | 50,8 | 1- OF 3-PIECE |
| SNOOKER | 234x116 | 8ft = minisnooker | 534x416 | 145 | 52,4 | 3-PIECE |
| SNOOKER | 264x130 | 9ft | 564x430 | 145 | 52,4 | 5-PIECE |
| SNOOKER | 295x146 | 10ft | 595x446 | 145 | 52,4 | 5-PIECE |
| SNOOKER | 356x178 | 12ft = match table | 656x478 | 145 | 52,4 | 5-PIECE |
| TAP Billiard | 180x90 | stop billiards / American billiards | 470x380 | 140 | 61,5 | 1-piece |
| ENGLISH POOL | 160x83 | 6ft pool blackball | 450x373 | 140 | 50,8 | 1-piece |
| ENGLISH POOL | 183x91 | 7ft pool blackball | 473x381 | 140 | 50,8 | 1-piece |
FAQ Petanque
Petanque can be played on many types of terrain. The most commonly used surfaces are loose and compacted gravel, fine crushed stone, or dolomite. Gravel or finely crushed shells make the game less interesting due to excessive uniformity. The irregularities of the terrain are an essential part of the game. Good drainage, however, is a requirement. The best way to assess the soil condition is to ask the municipal landscaping department how to construct a gravel-covered park path in your area.
The official dimensions of a petanque court are a minimum of 4 x 15 meters, but a court of 3 x 12 meters is usually sufficient. Our court measures 2 x 10 meters. Railway sleepers are often used to border the court because of their durability. Planks, such as dam planks or formwork boards about 2 cm thick, that extend a few centimeters above the court can also be used. A stone edge has the disadvantage of being more prone to damage from thrown balls. While a boundary is not strictly necessary, it can prevent balls from rolling onto the road or overlapping games if multiple games are being played on the same terrain. An orange nylon cord can also serve as a boundary. It is essential, however, to ensure the court is not overly level; slopes and uneven surfaces make the game more engaging.
In principle, petanque can be played on almost any surface, but dolomite gravel is the preferred choice. Make sure to use the finest grade: 0/5, as it contains a good amount of sand, which helps the court harden over time. A layer of 10-15 cm is sufficient. Dolomite can be found in the Yellow Pages under "gravel" (sand and gravel) or "sand pits." Alternatively, you can contact a landscaper or contractor directly. As mentioned earlier, good drainage is crucial—nobody enjoys playing in a muddy pit. On a well-draining surface, dig out the court to a depth of about 10 cm, lay down a weed barrier fabric, and cover it with dolomite. The fabric prevents weed growth and stops the dolomite from mixing with the sand due to worms and other pests. Tamp it down, and you’re done.
How much dolomite is needed? The volume of the pit is length x width x depth. In our case, it’s 2 x 10 x 0.15 meters = 3 cubic meters of dolomite.
If you’re dealing with heavy, less permeable soil, you’ll need a different approach. The court must be dug deeper. Beneath the 10 cm layer of dolomite, you’ll need a rubble layer—stone chippings, crushed construction debris, coarse gravel, etc.—at least 20 cm thick to ensure drainage. If you dig to a depth of 30 cm, a weed barrier fabric is no longer necessary.
CAUTION: All this digging will produce a lot of soil. Plan ahead for what you will do with it: remove it or use it in your garden. In our case, it’s 2 x 10 x 0.30 meters or 6 cubic meters of soil.
In every game, there is sometimes an absolute loser. In the game of petanque, that is 0 - 13! This humiliation is known as "Fanny." But who is this mysterious Fanny? Here are two intriguing stories:
The first story takes place at the end of the 19th century at one of the first petanque clubs in Lyon. There, a woman named Fanny Dubriand had the habit of showing her bare backside to those who had lost with a score of 0 - 13. Were these unfortunate losers forced to kiss Fanny’s bare buttocks as the ultimate humiliation? Who knows. In any case, since then, the expression "Allez embrasser Fanny" has been used for these unfortunate losers.
The second story: just before the First World War, Fanny worked as a waitress in a café in Grand Lemps, Northern France. Losers who failed to score a single point were allowed to embrace her as a consolation, a sort of moral compensation. Until one day, even the mayor of the area wanted to be comforted. But what did our Fanny do? She climbed onto a chair, lifted her skirts, and offered him her other bare cheeks. And the mayor, unafraid, promptly gave her two big kisses. This was the beginning of a long tradition.
Since then, many clubs have their own imitation Fanny, which they place in a place of honor in their clubroom. Winners take their unfortunate 0 - 13 losers and, with a bow, make them kiss Fanny's buttocks. If a better player is unlucky enough to encounter Fanny and gets to kiss her, it is definitely an encouragement for the less skilled players. No matter how good you are, the ball is round and does what it wants. In French, people say "mettre Fanny," "il est Fanny," or sometimes "il a fait Fanny," but they always say "Fanny paie à boire" (Fanny buys the drinks). A splendid tradition!
Hardness
A soft boule will bounce less on a hard surface and will also have less rebound when hitting a target (which is a significant advantage in the game). However, such a boule will "mark" more quickly (show signs of wear) due to contact with the ground and other boules. On the other hand, a hard boule is better suited for soft terrains and has a longer lifespan.
Boules with a hardness rating of + are ideal for aggressive players.
Good players, especially tireurs, prefer the softest possible boules.
For more recreational players, a semi-soft boule is the most suitable. These are all-around boules, suitable for all types of terrain, whether shooting or placing.
Steel Typex
There are two main types of steel: stainless steel and carbon steel.
Stainless Steel:
- Top quality
- Long lifespan
- Provides a silky smooth grip
- Requires little maintenance
Carbon Steel:
- Provides a rougher and firmer grip
- Has a chrome or black coating that wears away over time due to contact with the ground
- Needs to be occasionally treated with oil to prevent rusting
Diameter
The diameter depends on the shape of the player's hand and the length of their fingers.
The most common diameters are:
- For men: 74-75 mm
- For women: 72-73 mm
Depending on your playing style, you should choose a specific diameter:
- A smaller diameter for pointeurs (also harder to hit for tireurs)
- A larger diameter for tireurs (also easier to hit the opponent's boules)
Weight
The most common weights are:
- For men: 700 – 730 grams
- For women: 680 – 710 grams
Pointeurs prefer boules with a weight between 710 and 730 grams because a heavier boule tends to "stop" sooner.
Tireurs, on the other hand, prefer boules with a weight between 680 and 700 grams, as a lighter boule requires less power and allows for a more precise swing.
Striation (Grooves)
Grooves in the boule, along with the identifying mark, help distinguish boules during play.
Pointeurs prefer boules with grooves because they provide a better grip on difficult terrains.
Tireurs prefer smooth boules as they don’t "catch" in the hand.