​FAQ​

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Vacuuming is the best way to clean the pool table cloth. You can do this with an optional vacuum attachment. For areas that the vacuum cannot reach, you can use a brush. The Simonis X1 brush can also be used to remove any remaining chalk on the cloth. Never use water (or water with vinegar). If moisture gets on the pool table cloth, the fabric will stretch and will not shrink back, causing the cloth to loosen and sag on the table. This can make the table play slower due to the increased resistance of the loose cloth curling up.

There is very little friction and contact between the cue tip and the ball, which is why the cue tip must be properly rubbed with chalk. To properly rub chalk onto your cue tip, you should definitely avoid twisting the chalk. Start at the center of the cue tip and then rub outward, ensuring the powder is evenly distributed and the edges are well “coated.”

If your cue tip needs to be replaced, you can have this done at our store.

If you prefer to do it yourself, here are some tips (for glued cue tips):

1. It is important that the top of the leg is and remains flat. You can do this with a Stanley knife or with a Topper sanding device available in our shop. Never sand by hand because then the cap will become round and the tip will not have a good gluing surface.
2. Roughen the bottom of the new tip on a flat piece of sandpaper (better glue connection).
3. Apply the glue (contact or super glue) to the new tip (flat side) and press it onto the leg.
4. Clamp the tip under a glue clamp after one-sided gluing.
5. After drying, you can touch up the tip with a special tip sharpener or carefully with a sanding strip.
6. Sand the top of the tip into shape (slightly convex) and roughen it.
7. Ready for use!

To maintain the original color of your cloth, we recommend not exposing it to sunlight or moonlight for extended periods. You can also protect it with a cover.

To remove chalk particles and dust from the cloth, it is sufficient to use the dual-height hairbrush designed to reach under the edges. You can also use your vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment. If your vacuum cleaner is equipped with a pressure regulator, make sure to set it to the minimum.

TWO GOLDEN RULES to observe around your billiard table:

• DO NOT SMOKE over the playing area.
• DO NOT PLACE DRINKS on the rails.

The only way to properly attach this to the cue is as follows:

1. Slide the rubber grip over the top of the cue (cue together) as far as possible.
2. Then where the cue is thickest. Roll the rubber up. Until there is a large roll of rubber.
3. Turn the rubber roller one turn (reverse). Roll the rubber roller from the top (tip end) down as far as you want the grip to go.
4. Then roll back and you're done.

Your cue tip needs to be rough. Cue tips are made of leather. When the cue tip is rough, it can hold chalk effectively. Over time, the cue may start to miscue (slipping off the ball). Using a special sanding stick, you can roughen the cue tip again. We also offer various other sanding tools for your cue tip. If your cue tip is uneven, we also have a special cue tip shaper or cue tip polisher for this purpose.

The purpose of a table cover is to keep the billiard cloth free of dust.

A table cover has additional functions. A non-light-transmitting cover has the advantage of preserving the color of the billiard cloth for a longer time. It also prevents the cloth from getting dirty if, for instance, a glass is accidentally spilled.

Sometimes, people leave the corners of the table cover folded up (on a carom billiard table). They do this to release heat from under the cloth, claiming it’s better for the rubber cushions. You should NEVER do this! When the corners are left open, those areas remain cool. Further toward the center, the table—and especially the rubber cushions—becomes warmer.

Rubber cushions are made of natural rubber, which dries out due to heat and age. The warmer the table, the shorter the lifespan of the rubber. This difference in lifespan can amount to as much as two years. Additionally, this causes inconsistencies in the quality of the rubber. In the corners, the rubber remains cooler and lasts longer, while in the center, the warmer rubber wears out faster. Over time, this results in differences in play effects.

So: When the heating is on, preferably leave the tarpaulin off. We also advise to turn off the heating when there is no more playing, and to use the tarpaulin.

A billiard table heating system is not meant to warm the table but to keep it dry. Billiard cloths are made of wool (90%).

Wool has the property of becoming thicker when damp. When the cloth is dry, the fibers lie flat, but when damp, the fibers stand upright. This increases resistance and slows the ball down. Beneath the billiard cloth is a slate bed (natural stone). Slate is a porous material and absorbs moisture (it fogs up like a window). When the billiard table heating is set to 3 to 4 degrees above the room temperature, the table cannot retain moisture. This ensures the fibers of the billiard cloth lie flat, providing minimal resistance and allowing the ball to roll farther across the table.

Petanque can be played on many types of terrain. The most commonly used surfaces are loose and compacted gravel, fine crushed stone, or dolomite. Gravel or finely crushed shells make the game less interesting due to excessive uniformity. The irregularities of the terrain are an essential part of the game. Good drainage, however, is a requirement. The best way to assess the soil condition is to ask the municipal landscaping department how to construct a gravel-covered park path in your area.

The official dimensions of a petanque court are a minimum of 4 x 15 meters, but a court of 3 x 12 meters is usually sufficient. Our court measures 2 x 10 meters. Railway sleepers are often used to border the court because of their durability. Planks, such as dam planks or formwork boards about 2 cm thick, that extend a few centimeters above the court can also be used. A stone edge has the disadvantage of being more prone to damage from thrown balls. While a boundary is not strictly necessary, it can prevent balls from rolling onto the road or overlapping games if multiple games are being played on the same terrain. An orange nylon cord can also serve as a boundary. It is essential, however, to ensure the court is not overly level; slopes and uneven surfaces make the game more engaging.

In principle, petanque can be played on almost any surface, but dolomite gravel is the preferred choice. Make sure to use the finest grade: 0/5, as it contains a good amount of sand, which helps the court harden over time. A layer of 10-15 cm is sufficient. Dolomite can be found in the Yellow Pages under "gravel" (sand and gravel) or "sand pits." Alternatively, you can contact a landscaper or contractor directly. As mentioned earlier, good drainage is crucial—nobody enjoys playing in a muddy pit. On a well-draining surface, dig out the court to a depth of about 10 cm, lay down a weed barrier fabric, and cover it with dolomite. The fabric prevents weed growth and stops the dolomite from mixing with the sand due to worms and other pests. Tamp it down, and you’re done.

How much dolomite is needed? The volume of the pit is length x width x depth. In our case, it’s 2 x 10 x 0.15 meters = 3 cubic meters of dolomite.

If you’re dealing with heavy, less permeable soil, you’ll need a different approach. The court must be dug deeper. Beneath the 10 cm layer of dolomite, you’ll need a rubble layer—stone chippings, crushed construction debris, coarse gravel, etc.—at least 20 cm thick to ensure drainage. If you dig to a depth of 30 cm, a weed barrier fabric is no longer necessary.

CAUTION: All this digging will produce a lot of soil. Plan ahead for what you will do with it: remove it or use it in your garden. In our case, it’s 2 x 10 x 0.30 meters or 6 cubic meters of soil.

In every game, there is sometimes an absolute loser. In the game of petanque, that is 0 - 13! This humiliation is known as "Fanny." But who is this mysterious Fanny? Here are two intriguing stories:

The first story takes place at the end of the 19th century at one of the first petanque clubs in Lyon. There, a woman named Fanny Dubriand had the habit of showing her bare backside to those who had lost with a score of 0 - 13. Were these unfortunate losers forced to kiss Fanny’s bare buttocks as the ultimate humiliation? Who knows. In any case, since then, the expression "Allez embrasser Fanny" has been used for these unfortunate losers.

The second story: just before the First World War, Fanny worked as a waitress in a café in Grand Lemps, Northern France. Losers who failed to score a single point were allowed to embrace her as a consolation, a sort of moral compensation. Until one day, even the mayor of the area wanted to be comforted. But what did our Fanny do? She climbed onto a chair, lifted her skirts, and offered him her other bare cheeks. And the mayor, unafraid, promptly gave her two big kisses. This was the beginning of a long tradition.

Since then, many clubs have their own imitation Fanny, which they place in a place of honor in their clubroom. Winners take their unfortunate 0 - 13 losers and, with a bow, make them kiss Fanny's buttocks. If a better player is unlucky enough to encounter Fanny and gets to kiss her, it is definitely an encouragement for the less skilled players. No matter how good you are, the ball is round and does what it wants. In French, people say "mettre Fanny," "il est Fanny," or sometimes "il a fait Fanny," but they always say "Fanny paie à boire" (Fanny buys the drinks). A splendid tradition!